Eben Page Here

And that is the real lesson.

Here is why Eben Page might just be the most fascinating—and most underrated—big-wave rider of his generation. While other surfers were cashing in on the "Eddie would go" fame of the early 2000s, Eben Page did something radical: he went home. eben page

And then there is Eben Page.

Eben Page is the exception. And that is because he treats the ocean like a mathematician, not a matador. Those who have surfed Mavericks with Page describe him as unnervingly calm. While waves detonate with the force of a freight train, Page doesn't hoot. He doesn't flail. He breathes. And that is the real lesson

In big-wave surfing, there is a saying: "There are old surfers and there are bold surfers, but there are no old, bold surfers." And then there is Eben Page

But when the charts go red and the National Weather Service issues the "High Surf Warning"—when the tourists are running toward the beach to watch—Eben Page will walk the opposite direction. Toward the water. Toward the quiet.

If you blinked, you missed him. If you listened closely, you barely heard him. But if you ever paddled out at Mavericks or Jaws on a 50-foot day, he was the one you wanted next to you.